Kerstin, who was also in Lima on those days, shared her room with me ~ thank you Kerstin!! The 3 of us had an evening together with a great dinner and even a bit of dancing....At some point during our time out on the city my phone disappeared :-(
After a lot of deliberation, Iolani and I decided our next stop would be Machu Picchu! The choice to make that journey was shrouded in high costs, yet a sense of obligation to ourselves and the country we were in. Cuzco is a highish altitude city near the sacred valleys with its own rich Incan history. Now, it's a vibrant bustling place with lots to see and taste! In order to reach Machu Picchu, we took a train and a 'collectivo' to Aquas Calientes, slept a bit, and got up early to start our hike up!
Wow!! Truly awesome!! It was helpful to here the guide describe the purpose and deep wisdom of this complex accomplishment built so very long ago. We stayed there exploring for most of the day, hot sun so much closer than usual yet the desire to stay, see and understand as much as possible.
Then it was time to make some decisions and to prioritize. I was still determined to experience Iolani's travel style of thrifty creative methods of getting around, eating, and sleeping on a very modest budget! Due to the high mountains between us and the coast we had to take a bus south and around before we could head north.
All night and part of the next day was spent in the bus looking out at ever changing landscapes. Lush, green mountains, dry, desert pus canyons and then flat lands, etc.
We first got out in Ica on the coast and were tempted by a taxi driver to take a look at Huacachina, an oasis town surrounded by huge desert sand dunes. There we were presented with all kinds of fun options like sand boarding and vineyard tours but I, Fiona/mama had very swollen ankles, was exhausted and grumpy, and already tired of tourist traps. So we hopped on another couple buses, and that night we slept in the small beach town of Paracas.
OK, the swelling went down, my spirits came back up and I realized we are tourists after all so Iolani magically arranged two seats for us on a boat. We were going to the Islas Ballestas (the Galapagos of Perú) to see the wildlife there. Sea lions, penguins, pelicans and many more had fairly undisturbed reign over islands of rock outcroppings. This was part of the Reserva Nacional de Paracas.
The next leg of our trip involved another night bus - changing over in Lima, where we were helped by a coked up taxista - and on to Huaraz, a remote, inland city surrounded by high mountains. We got there (completely exhausted from traveling) at about 7am, just in time to take an 8 hour bus tour of an area filled with wonders. The sight of an entire town that had been destroyed and covered by an earthquake and then an avalanche, a large turquoise glacier fed laguna, and much more, all eloquently described in Spanish for the group and patiently translated for me by Iolani.
We chose to keep heading north that night on another 16 hour bus journey through the peruvian desert and then a collectivo' with a some flat tire issues...in order to arrive to and stay on the beach for a couple days. Finally, after many complicated bus and can changeovers, we reached Màncora in the region of Piura and the beach we'd been craving. Our dear Safir had also just arrived there with her companions and we shared information and drinks, lots of sunshine, beautiful beaches, uncountable fresh ceviches, and some well earned rest for two days. And then we caught another night bus across the border into
Equador.
Iolani discovered an idyllic sounding hostel up in the mountains a couple hours south of Quito in the Cotopaxi National Park called the Secret Garden. We booked two nights there in a tent with a perfect view of the Cotopaxi Volcano. It was popular with the world of trekkers and each morning a trip would head out on some great adventure. We joined a long and uptempo horseback ride through the foothills of Cotopaxi, made it back for lunch then headed back out hiking for some waterfalls. The next day I was beat but Iolani chose to go on another climb up Pachoa, another volcano!
I had just one night and one more day until my flight out of Quito. After a couple minutes of research Iolani had chosen a hostel for us and we drove a couple hours, arriving that evening.
OK, the swelling went down, my spirits came back up and I realized we are tourists after all so Iolani magically arranged two seats for us on a boat. We were going to the Islas Ballestas (the Galapagos of Perú) to see the wildlife there. Sea lions, penguins, pelicans and many more had fairly undisturbed reign over islands of rock outcroppings. This was part of the Reserva Nacional de Paracas.
The next leg of our trip involved another night bus - changing over in Lima, where we were helped by a coked up taxista - and on to Huaraz, a remote, inland city surrounded by high mountains. We got there (completely exhausted from traveling) at about 7am, just in time to take an 8 hour bus tour of an area filled with wonders. The sight of an entire town that had been destroyed and covered by an earthquake and then an avalanche, a large turquoise glacier fed laguna, and much more, all eloquently described in Spanish for the group and patiently translated for me by Iolani.
We chose to keep heading north that night on another 16 hour bus journey through the peruvian desert and then a collectivo' with a some flat tire issues...in order to arrive to and stay on the beach for a couple days. Finally, after many complicated bus and can changeovers, we reached Màncora in the region of Piura and the beach we'd been craving. Our dear Safir had also just arrived there with her companions and we shared information and drinks, lots of sunshine, beautiful beaches, uncountable fresh ceviches, and some well earned rest for two days. And then we caught another night bus across the border into
Equador.
Iolani discovered an idyllic sounding hostel up in the mountains a couple hours south of Quito in the Cotopaxi National Park called the Secret Garden. We booked two nights there in a tent with a perfect view of the Cotopaxi Volcano. It was popular with the world of trekkers and each morning a trip would head out on some great adventure. We joined a long and uptempo horseback ride through the foothills of Cotopaxi, made it back for lunch then headed back out hiking for some waterfalls. The next day I was beat but Iolani chose to go on another climb up Pachoa, another volcano!
I had just one night and one more day until my flight out of Quito. After a couple minutes of research Iolani had chosen a hostel for us and we drove a couple hours, arriving that evening.
The next day we explored the city and found lots of good food and an astonishing amount of innovative public services. They had a great bus system through the city, drinking water fountains, parks, traffic police at intersections and even a bicycle cooperative - all of which are very rare to see in S America!. We explored the various markets and finally found the place to buy the gifts I had hoped to bring home with me.
Even though it had only been two weeks I could not imagine saying goodbye to Iolani and each of us continuing on our individual paths!
Now after dodging winter storm flight cancellations and a day of standby status in Atlanta, I'm sitting at home in front of the fire. My luggage is supposed to arrive in Hartford soon and I hope that's true!
Thank you Don for your loving support, Iolani for your patience and guidance, Roadside for holding down the fort and all dear people who made it a great trip!
Now after dodging winter storm flight cancellations and a day of standby status in Atlanta, I'm sitting at home in front of the fire. My luggage is supposed to arrive in Hartford soon and I hope that's true!
Thank you Don for your loving support, Iolani for your patience and guidance, Roadside for holding down the fort and all dear people who made it a great trip!
P.S. Many photos on my and Iolani's Facebook timelines!
sounds like a successful trip!
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