Saigon / Ho Chi Minh City! Goodbye Vietnam

I got up at 6am and walked to the market to get us all breakfast and lunch for the bus ride to Saigon 0:-) . We missed our bus (because it left early), but then managed to catch one... We spent 8 hours on the bus to get from Dalat to Saigon. It would have been fine, but we were kindly blessed with a few unfortunate happenings: first off, Daryl had the shits...so, he was in a bad place right from the get go. On top of that we were in very uncomfortable seats that didn't recline, AND the AC was broken (very problematic in this heat and humidity). Needless to say, it was an unpleasant ride, and upon arriving in Saigon - where we had not yet booked a hostel - we just wanted to shower off the sweat and then relax!
So, all grumpy and indifferent to everything, we found a hostel (or rather the boys found a hostel that suited them). They chose dorm for $8/night - not one of the many $5 places close by - because it had good reviews on trip advisor. Haha!! Well, I guess that's just another difference; I just hope it doesn't hurt me too much financially.
Anyhow... So, we settled in, showered, ate, relaxed, and then I looked around a bit to see what the city had to offer.
We went out in the evening! The nightlife in Saigon is so completely different. In Vietnam everything has to shut down by 23h, and if they don't, the police drive around to all the bars that still have customers, and take all the sitting stools away and sometimes even the computers and sound systems as a punishment for not closing on time. But, this time we only made it "out" at around 23h30 and walked just a few blocks before coming across a lively street! Everyone, locals and foreigners alike, were seated tight together along the whole sidewalk and street, drinking beer and socialising. It was something new, and surely nice!
The next day was a pretty slow day due to the boy's hangover, but once I finally got them out of the hostel (at around 2pm), we were able to see quite a bit. As we were walking to the sights we saw a mini, astro-turf, football pitch ("soccer field"). A group of Vietnamese were getting ready to play, and the 4 of us asked to join in for a bit (using sign language as none of them spoke English). All of us are passionate about football, and have played quite a bit, so it was just so wonderful to get back on the field!
That evening we met up with 2 Danish girls who the boys had met in Thailand a month ago. We had dinner with them, and then went out for, what was supposed to be a few drinks and an early night, but ended quite differently. I was in a bit of a down mood, so I - the dead beet - left early... I was quite thankful I did though when it came to the activities we had planned for the next day!
On Sunday the 23rd, we took a tour to "The Tunnels". Our tour guide Tony was in the Vietnam war working as a translator for the US army. It was incredible hearing about it so unfiltered as well as being able to really see it first hand. He told us about the techniques the KAmericans and the Vietnamese used as against each other, and gave some pretty brutal descriptions of the gruesome happenings which affected so many people. It was definitely a necessary thing to see when in Vietnam, and hearing it from that perspective was a big plus.
We spent a few more wonderful days in Vietnam! We went to a rooftop pool party at some fancy 5 star hotel. We went to the market :-) We ate lots of good food! We even went to Sky Bar, a very posh bar on the 52nd floor of the tallest building in Vietnam overlooking Saigon all lit up! We each had to get a drink, and my draft beer (the cheapest thing on the menu), cost $6! Holy shiiiit!! That exact same draft beer cost me $0.50 at a bar the night before! I never would have done that if I wasn't with the boys, but I'm glad I did. I spent way too much money, but it was definitely good for me to let go for a bit!
On Sunday night I got on a bus - that was to take 6 hours - across the border, to Phnom Penh, Cambodia!

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Dalat - city in the mountains

Arriving in Dalat, I go a bit lost, but eventually found th boys! We booked 4 beds in a dorm, and then set out for lunch and exploration: Market :-) We found some incredible food places!
The next day we rented 2 motorbikes, I packed us a lunch, and we went to a waterfall right outside the city. It was a bit of a disappointment, especially because we had to pay for every little thing. But we had a nice picnic and some nice time together! In the evening we got some good street food for dinner and then went out all dressed in green for St. Patty's day! I as very surprised that no one was out celebrating as there were many westerners in Dalat.
Dalai is tucked in the mountains close to the border of Laos. My generous travel buds gave me some anti-malaria pills (doxycycline) which I don't usually like to take, but decided it would be better than the alternative. So, we should be okay if we remember to keep taking them for the next week (I think we'll be okay anyway...).
One day we went for a run around the lake in the middle of the city (9 Km). It was good for us because we all pushed each other no one wanting to lose face by stopping or slowing! It was a much needed workout and will hopefully become more of a routine.
Now, as for my travel buddies. They are 3 wonderful, kind, generous, smart gentlemen from south of London. They are 22 and 23 years old, nd left their jobs - at least temporarily - to travel for 8 months. They started in Northern Thailand and then came to Hanoi, where I met them in the dorm. When I first saw them, they came into the dorm room, introduced themselves and then started working out (they are quite aware of their physique). Daryl is the sweet jokester, Nick the initiator, and Adam the observer. I have had to learn how to take their English humor, and maybe throw it back, which is hard for me as it can often be a bit harsh and hurtful....  I love all three of them, and will be sad to leave when we have to part.
We left today, Thursday, March 20th, for Ho CHI Minh City (or "Saigon")! An 8 hrs bus ride, literally dripping with sweat because the AC was broken.

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Nha Trang with my new buds!

It was another long (12hrs) trip on the sleeper bus. When I got on the bus I went right to the back to where there is a row of 5 sleeper seats next to each other, hoping that I'd get lucky and get it all to myself! Right before we pulled out of the bus station a group of 7 loud boys came onto the bus. 4 of them climbed and squeezed onto the remaining seats next to me, joking immaturely all the while about spooning and cuddling. We started chatting and exchanging stories...: they are 7, 19 year-old English guys traveling for a few months...only 2 weeks in. When I answered their questions about age and travel history and the other routine questions that seem to start most conversations between travelers, they kind of went quite, stopped joking around, and maturely, respectfully, and with genuine interest interviewed me for the next few hours. It was quite amusing to be honest!
When we arrived, I went to the same hostel as them, booked one night and then met up with Nick, Adam, and Daryl and went to the beach with them. We chilled and discussed. We both didn't want to compromise or change each others travel plans or freedom, and agreed that it would only work if we stayed true to ourselves. And so started our temporary but exciting time traveling together!
In the evening I took them to the market :-) and then we went out for dinner at an expensive seafood restaurant (expensive for Vietnam). [This was the first thing I had to accept about our different travel styles...] then we went out to Why Not bar. It was a good night!
In the morning I packed up, checked out, and moved into the dorm where the boys were (I moved and not them because theirs was cheaper haha). We went out (again) for breakfast, but I just brought along a mango,a couple bananas, and some soymilk I had bought the day before! I'll change some things for my boys, but not if it'll potentially hurt me...so I just modify a little.
That day, after much back and forth, I decided to join them on their trip to Vinpearl Land. We each (the 3 boys, 2 other English girls, and I) paid 500,000VND ($25) for our ticket, and then got a taxi to where the world's biggest over water cable car took us from the mainland onto the small island. We spent 10 hours there to get in all we could for the money we had paid. We went on all the rides (unimpressive), did all the slides in the water park - a few times - , spent a few hours on the picturesque beach, did "bungee jumping" (assisted trampoline), took the alpine coaster just in time for the sunset, ate food, went the Underwater World (an impressive aquarium), and then after dark went to the arcade. It was the weirdest amusement park anyone could imagine! There was hardly a soul around...but it was in perfect condition. It felt like there was something we didn't know about - like maybe there was a tsunami coming, or a zombie apocalypse haha...
The next day we went to the local brewery, tried some beers, and then in the evening went to a bar to watch the boy's home teams play football! Boy was that emotional!
Nha Trang too was a nice city; a bit big for me though. On Monday morning I hopped on a bus to Dalat where I would meet the boys...
~Iolani

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Hoi An - Birthday with new friends!

I arrived early on the 11th, found myself a hostel, and then met a really cool French guy as I entered my room. I spotted a pair of dirty feet around the corner, introduced myself to the bearded Frenchman, and we hit off the conversation right away about our barefoot travels! He showed me an amazingggg vegan restaurant (where I ended up eating dinner for the next 4 nights, including my birthday dinner!). It was full of sensational raw and cooked vegan foods. In the US could be overseen as another place for the conscious eaters, but here in Asia something like that is sooo rare. He told me of his extensive travels in the past and gave me some words of encouragement and reassurance that will help me more than any tips or advice ever could. He is one of those incredible people who one rarely has the privilege to run into, and I'm bummed he had to leave that same day. There was simply SO much we wanted to talk about, so many crazy similarities...!
That day I went to the market to explore (the market is my favorite part of every city), and while I wandered, admiring all around me, I literally ran into Adam, and then found myself hugging the three English boys (Adam, Joe, and Tom) from Hanoi - the ones who were on our flight from Bangkok and then that we share a private room with for a few nights! The last I had seen them, we were saying goodbye thinking we'd never see each other again... It's funny how small the world is when you throw yourself into it!
We spent that evening together, getting them all ridiculous, silk tailored jackets (a must-do), going to a shisha bar, and playing pool to welcome in the 20th year of my life! At the bar I also ran into (not so litterally) the other 3 English boys (Adam, Nick, and Daryl) - the ones I met in Hanoi, and then ran into in Hue. They were also a huge part in making the night so wonderful! :-)
On the morning of the 12th (my birthday) I woke up early to Skype with family! What a nice way to start a special day! Then I spent the day at the beach with Adam, Nick, and Daryl, and also Josephine (a stunning Danish girl who I met at the hostel). Later, Josephine and I went out for dinner at the vegan place :-) and then went back to that bar for the evening! We met up with 2 French guys who she had met before, and an Israeli girl, Yael, who we HD bet at the hostel! We enjoyed some cocktails, and then they got flaming birthday shots (which burned everyone's lips)! And then, just before midnight, the loud music went off and a "happy birthday" song came on the speakers, and someone carried out a mini cake to me! It was such a sweet gesture from Josephine and Yael! <3
The rest of the night was spent playing pool, and dancing bachata and salsa (with a Colombian who I just met). It was a good night!
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention: that day, while on the beach, the three English boys expressed that they would love it if I traveled along with them for a bit - no commitment. They said my ways really inspired them, and since I had a similar plan for the next couple of weeks, it would be lovely to go together. I thought about it and then said that I'd see them in Nha Trang in a couple days and we'd go from there... (more to come about this in the Nha Trang post)
Hoi An is my favorite city in Vietnam so far! That probably has something to do with the wonderful company a had and the nice times we spent, but it also has such a welcoming and comfortable feel to it! I was sad to go when I did, but it was the right time to move on!
~Iolani

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Sapa - Beautiful Mountain Peoples

On March 4th, at 6pm, I boarded a bus to Sapa (a town in northern Vietnam, close to the border of China). I had paid for a tour to go see the breathtaking rice paddies, and to spend a couple days with the local villagers.
After a 12 hour overnight bus ride, we got off the bus, quickly layering up. I put on shoes for the first time in over a month... we were led to a hotel where we ate breakfast and then met our tour guides - local women who lived in the small minority villages.
We set off walking through Sapa and then along a path leading us up and down, through and around unimaginable rice paddies. The mountains all around us had completely been transformed into picturesque terraced ledges with specific water level control ridges. Water buffalo and pigs wandered the paddies all around us, seemingly free to go where released and eat all in their path.
Along the way the group of small, colorfully dressed, energetic women, used whatever English they had to chat with us and build a connection (seemingly innocently...but later we saw the real reason they walked all those Km with us, babies or big baskets strapped to their backs, without receiving any pay).
About 7 Km in we crossed a big suspension bridge and came into a small village (where some of our small guides live, along with all the rice farmers), where we were to have lunch. As we were getting ready to sit down to eat, we were completely attacked by the locals trying to sell us all sorts of handmade things: small and large colorful bags, blankets, rings, bracelets, wallets...all of which they had supposedly stitched and embroidered by hand. The women who had walked all that was with us, digging their way into our hearts were now pleading with us, accompanied by a swarm of 5 - 10 year old girls, looking at us with the saddest eyes and repeating things like "Buy from me! 2 for 5! 5 for 10!" and shoving colorful bracelets at us. Both were very difficult to refuse at first due to feelings of guilt, and a wish to contribute something to try to better their poor lifestyle. But, after some time, we didn't even bother trying to make excuses about why we didn't want to buy, and simply tried to ignore their, now irritating, insists.
***we were later enlightened on the situation by our main "guide". She explained that the women were the ones who earned the money for the household while the men built houses, and any and all hands, men and women alike, worked the rice and corn fields. Those selling things,the young children included, depended too much on their sales to tourists which took them away from their necessary daily activities - work, school, etc.- which was changing the villages a lot, especially in that they were becoming more and more dependent on outside resources versus being mostly self-serving and providing for themselves all that was needed - as was the way since...... She suggested that by buying into it, we were supporting it.
We ate lunch and then walked another 5Km along the beautiful trail until we reached our homestay (a local house that had been turned into a dorm with a large dining area. We explored a bit around the small village, ate dinner - which had been prepared for us by the locals -, and then were given shot after shot of a stronggg rice liquor, made there in the village! We soon retired to our beds,tired from the days excitement!
The next day we trekked some more through the mountains and past a dry waterfall, but the visibility wasn't so great due to large clouds which engulfed us. Again, we had lunch at another village, and again were attacked again by the persist sale attempts... We enjoyed a wonderful lunch together, and then were brought back to Sapa to catch or night bus back to Hanoi.
The entire trip was wonderful and filled with beautiful sights and people, but for me it was especially a deep cultural eye-opener. The complete separation between the Vietnamese city people and the minority tripe peoples, and even more so we westerners, is absolutely unbelievable and striking to learn about. It makes ones life seem so small and insignificant in the grand scheme of things.

I'm falling a little behind on my posts (which is a good thing because it means I'm not spending hours on my tablet and am making better use of my time) but will they my sweetest to catch you all up!

~Iolani

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Hanoi to Hue...and on to Hoi An

March 8th I hopped on a bus taking me southward (I'm running from the cold, rainy dreariness) to Hue. It was a supposed to be a 14 hour bus ride in a nice sleeper bus, but ended up taking almost 17 hours due to a tire explosion, and the fact that Vietnamese don't prepare for these kinds of things...
When we finally stepped of the bus (and were attacked as usual by the overwhelmingly pushy hotel and tour promoters), we were all relieved at how warm it was!!! I found a small "homestay" hostel (just a little, family run dorm room), paying $5/night, with breakfast included. (All the other hostels I went to in the area charged $7+) I settled in, did laundry, showered, and then went for a little exploration.
Hue is Vietnam's Imperial city, and home to many beautiful, old buildings and tombs (most of them inaccessible by foot from the city center). First I walked to Citadella, the well preserved ancient city, still surrounded by a wall a moat, but only admired it from outside, because I had been told it wasn't worth the $5 entrance fee (very expensive for SE Asia). I then wandered through the back streets and alleys (which I prefer to the "main path"), watching the locals in their environment, playing cards, laughing, scolding their children, cooking together - things you only see if you take a few steps off the beaten path.
I soon reached the market (pictures to come...). This market though was very different from other ones I had been to. It wasn't all fixed up and glorified for the tourist's eye, with jacked up prices, but built and kept simply to serve the town's people as best as possible. It was cramped together and noisy and disorganized with little - if any - attention put toward cleanliness; everyone just pushing their way through - carrying huuuge rice bags and boxes of random medicines and oils one could only guess what they were - in order to get where they need to. People say that Vietnam, and the all of Asia is hectic and disorganized and dangerous, but once you immerse yourself a bit and partake, you can see it from a different perspective and can realize that there is "a method to the madness".
For the past few days, I haven't felt particularly motivated to do anything. Just sitting in bed, maybe reading, and eating food has satisfied me...but I don't like that! So, after my trip to the market, I went back in the direction of the river that runs through the city, where there's a small park, laid down my beach cloth on the grass, and did some inversion yoga!!!!
In the evening, and then the next day as well, I hung out with some people from my hostel, as well as some people staying at a different hostel who I had met and spent time with back in Hanoi.somebody mentioned something about a Vipassana meditation course, which instantly struck some interest in me, so I'm trying to find one within the near future!!! [I'm very enthusiastic about and excited for that!] oh, and then yesterday,the owner of the hostel I was in showed me the motorbike he's selling. It was set at a great price, in good condition, and after a test drive really tempted me... But after some careful consideration and self-reminders that safety comes first, and. Short but helpful Skype call with my wise grandparents and my father who always knows best, I resisted the urge and itch for (potentially risky) adventure, and declined the offer.
During my short Skype session with my grandparents, my grandfather said something that I hope I can live by, and I think we all could benefit from. It was something along the lines of, "no matter where you as and what you do, the experience comes from within you". I think I really butchered that [sorry Grand-O], but the gist was that we can all make what we want of a situation, and that what goes on inside us is what's truly important.
It was a relaxed but good couple of days spent in good company!
~Iolani

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Hanoi, Vietnam

Arriving in Vietnam, we got our visas, and then spent about half an hour trying to figure out how much Vietnamese money (dong) we should pull from the ATM. The tourist info desks weren't very helpful, both because they spoke very little English and because it seemed like they weren't very eager to help us westerners. We each took out 1,000,000VND (approx. $50), and then found a map and a minibus to take us toward the hostel filled block of Hanoi.
On the plane from BKK to Hanoi, we met 3 guys from England, who we ended up splitting the bus with, and then as things happen, also ended up finding a cheap room to split with them.
As soon as we got off the bus, we were bombarded by Vietnamesemen on motorbikes - who had been following our bus since the airport - trying to get us to come to their hotel...and probably also seeing what valuables we had.
We compared prices of a few different hostels, and then settled with a private room for the 5 of us with hot water, free beer (until the daily keg ran out), free breakfast, paying only $4 each (all the other hostels were $5 and up for a bed in a shared dorm room)!
We spent our first night and day in Hanoi exploring the city, as well as searching for motorbikes for the 3 guys, who planned to travel to the south of Vietnam on them.
Our second full day in Vietnam we took a tour to the famous Hallong Bay ($15 each). (I'll try to stay possitive here: ) We got on the bus at 8am, and 4 hours later arrived at Hallong Bay. [By the way, where we were - northern Vietnam - is not warm and sunny like southern Thailand...it's cold, foggy, and rainy almost every day] After waiting (in the cold) for an hour, we got on the boat and were served a delicious lunch! We then sat on the boat - which was still parked in the harbor - for another hour. Finally we set off, the tour guide telling us that the visibility was very poor at this time of year, and also that we had to rush through the activities of the day in order to get back at the planned time.
We first went into a cave (all lit up with colorful lights, and jam packed with tourists). It was quite an impressive, huge cave! Then, we hopped back on the boat and were taken to a fishing village. It was quite a sight with the floating houses and young children selling fruit from small boats, but we were soon told that np one actually lived there, it was just to serve to to tourists. :-\ we then sailed back to the harbor, supposedly passing right by the famous, "beautiful" Hallong Bay Islands, which we couldn't see at all thanks to the fog. Then we were carted back onto the bus for the 4 hour return journey.
It was a relatively cheap tour, but still felt quite cheated and disappointed by the end. ...oh well...

The next couple of days were unexpected and quite undesirable and uncomfortable, but in the end, the results were the only thing imaginable. I don't really want to write too many details, so I'll sum it up as best I can:
Ever since Kels came back and joined back up with me, things were different between us. We noticed it, talked about it quite a bit, and kind of pushed it off thinking (and hoping) that it would pass and that we just needed to get used to each other again. It turns out though that we have both simply changed, and grown. We set off on our journey, first on the Appalachian Trail and then on our world travels, together and with equal (or similar) goals of growth and exploration, worries, hopes, etc. We lived soooo much together, depended and leaned on each other for support, trusted and confided in each other, hated each other beyond imagination...and then made up realizing that the other was all we had - and it wasn't all that bad, etc. The great times were sooo great, and the bad times were complete suit, but in the end we always had each other!
But now we have different outlooks and plans for the future, and to put it simply, that makes it difficult to see eye to eye on big decisions regarding our trip...and before we knew it, on any decision at all.
Many very difficult discussions later, we were finally able to agree on one thing: that it was time for us to go our sepparate ways. The decision was not lacking in "what I really want" and "what's right for me" dilemmas, and worries of what the consequences would be, but in the end, it was the only option.
So, like mature adults, we split our shared belongings as equally as possible. $400 later I had bought myself a new tablet and camera because traveling without either... I'm sure I could, but I just wouldn't do it. We had dinner together a couple times, leaving nothing pending, nothing unsaid, and then parted ways with a longgg hug and kind words!
I highly doubt you'll ever read this, but...All the best to you Sita! May your travels bring you unlimited joy, liberating freedom, (rational) risk, ceaseless growth, and carefree dancing!!!! I love you girl and will never forget all the amazing experiences we shared...and I hope there are more to come! :) take care!!!!
~Iolani

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