Monday, December 29, 2014

Volcán Villarrica!! Pucón, Chile

While walking through town on our first day (of 2) in Pucón, I saw this majestic monster a decided that I would climb it.
The next day, at 6:30am I was getting geared up, and at 8am I set off with a small group up the beautiful Villarrica Volcano.
It was a long and slow climb, zigzagging up the steep, snowy (and icy) mountain face with our ice picks and big teeth attached to our boots. 

Out of the 200+ people who attempted the ascent that day, I was one of the 25 who succeeded! 


It was a thrill climbing for 5 hours in the blazing sun and blasting wind. And then sliding down the mountain at impressive speeds on a little sled (a safety technique to avoid avalanche).

2nd successful volcano ascent...and hopefully many more to come!





Tuesday, December 23, 2014

My Generous Chilean Friends

I spent a week in Santiago with my friends from Linares, Cony and Seba (Seba is studying in Santiago so he has an apartment there, and Cony, his younger sister just graduated high school so she came up to Santiago for the week as well). We spent the whole week living the college-weekend life: parties, clubs, alcohol, empty fridge (except for beers), sleeping until 14h, etc. -it was gross. But I managed to do some things in order to maintain my sanity -and health- at least a bit. Everyday, I got up at 10 (even if I had only gone to bed at 8), went for a run or to the gym in the building, and then went out shopping and made a really nice "lunch" (usually eaten at 17h). I also got the chance to see some more old friends from my exchange!
On our last day, Claudio (Seba and Cony's father) came to pick us up and head back to Linares. Upon our arrival, we frantically prepared for Cony's big graduation party which started 3hrs later. They went and ought a huuuuge, fancy speaker system, lots of beef to grill (Chilean style of course), tons of alcohol, and then went to set up the party which was held at a friend's "quincho" (a small property outside of the city with a small building perfect for get-togethers, a grill, a pool, etc. After some electricity and water complications, and lots of hustling around, friends started to arrive!
The festivities finally came to an end at about 10 the next day. But, at about 2am, one of Cony's friends forgot he had an alcohol limit. The glass he dropped was cleaned up by me -during which I cut 3 finger-tips to the bone, and the pile of digested food and liquids were eaten and re-digested by a hungryyyy homeless dog. 
The next day was tough day for me. When I woke up from my morning nap, Tío Claudio and Tía Lorena (Cony, Seba, and Cata's parents) called a doctor to the house to check out and dress my cuts. In times of sickness or injury while traveling, I always get homesick. And on top of it, I wasn't allowed to do ANYTHING. Not help make lunch, or sweep the floor, or take out the trash from the party, , not cut my own food, not even sit down by myself; and for those of you who know me, I love helping. So, I actually got angry about that...and was homesick. Tough day.
I spent this past week in Linares with Cony's family, doing anything I could think to do in that small town from bike riding with friends, to cooking yummy things, to going to soccer practice with my team of boys, to searching for colleges. It was a quiet week. But I know I'm getting too comfortable here...
The Molina family decided to take me on a little vacation to southern Argentina for a week. So, Sunday morning, we packed the car full with our bags and some food (to hopefully make the trip a bit cheaper), I made crepe, and we hit the road. It was impressive to watch the changes of surroundings as we traveled south to Patagonia. Everything was more green and juicy, and it became a noticeably colder as we traveled.
5hrs later we arrived in Pucón, Chile, a popular vacation destination in southern Chile. We found a cabin for 2 nights and then set out on the town. We went out to eat (like they do 1 or 2 times a day) some yummy Chilean food! As we were walking around they showed me the beautiful landscapes surrounding the city: Villarrica Lake, Villarrica Volcano, and other mountains. 
When I saw the snow capped volcano I knew I had to climb it. It turned out to be quite a pricy trip (at least on my cheap-travelers budget), but I decided that this was just what I needed: some alone/quiet time, meeting new people and travelers, and most of all, ADVENTURE!
That evening Tío Claudio, Cony, Seba, and I went to Los Pozones -incredible, completely natural hot springs! Wow, they weren't amazing! And we had the entire "pool" to ourselves. We went to the springs at 23h and arrived back at the cabin at 3am. 
At 5:30am I got up, packed some fruit, nuts, chocolate, and water, ate breakfast, and headed to the agency with which I would take on this crazy endeavor. 

**Villarrica Volcano ascent in next post**

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Empowered in Valpo

After a wonderful 11 days at the Nona B&B in Valparaiso, I am yet again on a bus, heading to Santiago. This Workaway was both the most busy and demanding, and the most rewarding and empowering work experience I've had yet. I came into a household of a mother and father in their early forties with twin 4 month old baby girls, and the 75 year old grandmother "Nona". They opened their house about 6 years ago to tourist who wanted a beautiful, conveniently located, homey, and comfortable place to stay while visiting the this city which holds so much personality! 
I'm sure that those of you with children -and even more so if you have twins- can imagine how having 2 little needy cutie pies at once takes up every minute of everyday, and almost all the time requires both parents, especially being their first children and every little cry gets treated like it's the end of the world... Plus, the grandmother tries to keep her distance in order to let them do things their own way.
Anyway, the point is that they were in great need of help running 5 room, 11 person B&B in a popular tourist section of Valpo (Valparaiso) during the summer season. 
On the afternoon that I arrived, René (the father of the babies, and the owner of the B&B) checked me in as if I was a guest to show me the process, and he told me to make myself at home and to go explore a bit of the city (which later -well, the next day-  came in useful as I was the one expected to give the new guests advice on where to eat, drink, dance, go shopping, take tours, how to get to the beach or any of the various tourist attractions, which buses to take to get where and how much that ride cost, etc.). So, I unpacked my clothes into the shelves in my small room (which I really never do while traveling because I'm either moving around too much for it to make sense to unpack, or I don't want to get too comfortable making it hard to leave...), and went for a walk up and down the colorful streets of Valpo.
The next morning I was shown how to clean the bathrooms, strip and remake the beds, vacuum, etc. in order to prepare the room for the next guests. I was shown how to make breakfast each morning for everyone, and of course the various places to do the daily shopping for the fresh breakfast I'd serve and any other supplies needed. And then after lunch, a couple from Germany arrived, being my first guests to receive. 
The daily tasks usually had me working from about 7am until lunch time (14h), and then in the afternoon I'd do any necessary shopping, and if I had time and didn't feel motivated to go to the beach or explore the city, I'd bake something yummy that would put shining smiles on the family's faces and have Nona (the grandmother) writing down my recipes "for when the girls were old enough to cook".
It was a lot of work and I was in every practical way running the place on my own. And sometimes on top of the tasks asked of me I'd offer to help with other things like cooking meals or picking up the in laws. It gave me a sense of achievement, and I think that I'm one of those people who loves helping people as much as I am able to and who loves feeling needed (not always a great quality). But they truly appreciated my "help" and treated me like family and not just like a worker. 
I was very lucky to also have been given the opportunity to do some (expensive) activities with the guests -and I went for free since I would then be able to promote the businesses! I got to go to a wonderful Chilean Cooking Class which included some great wine education as well! I was also sent on the horse riding trip over the "Duñas de Con Con"! Such a rush galloping for miles along the beach -a dream I've always had!
Saying goodbye was sad, but for me it was the right time to go, to move, to break down more self- and society-built boundaries, restrictions, and presumptions!
Onward...!!!! 

Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Jumping Back into the River...!

The birthday and wedding both were wonderful! Same as before: it was really nice seeing old friends again...! 
I'm haven't felt particularly inspired by anything here to write about in my blog, and I haven't been really feeling all the way HERE. So, I decided that what needed to be done was for me to change my plans quickly and do something spontaneous - like what every day of my travel life is usually made up of. So yesterday, as the bride and groom were about to drop me off at the bus station (on their way to Santiago) to get on a bus back to Linares, I asked them if it would be okay for me to tag along with them to Santiago.... Yes!
So, 4.5hrs later, I showed up at a friends apartment in Santiago (I had taken a snap shot of the address a while back, just in case), knocked on the door, and asked if I could stay for the night.... Yes!
In the evening, I went onto the workaway website and wrote to a few hostels around Santiago, Valparaiso, Viña del Mar, etc. (which are all within a 2hr bus ride radius) and asked if they needed some short term help...starting TOMORROW, and I decided that the first to respond would decide where I'd go! And if no one responded, I'd decide in the morning.
This morning (25/11/14) there were a few messages from workaway, most saying that they didn't need a helper at the moment or that it was too short a time for their preferences, but one did say that they'd be waiting for me!
So, I searched the Nona B&B online; found the address and the instructions on how to arrive; packed my things; walked to the metro which took me to the bus station; caught a bus to Valparaiso; and then a "micro" across the city; and one of the big elevators you need to get up the mountain that the city is built on; and finally, rang the bell!
This place is pretty perfect (Mom, if you ever read this, this is exactly the kind of place I could see you having!)! It's a couple, with new born twins and a grandmother who have lived here for many years and a few years ago decided to share their house and enchanting city with travelers. It only has 4 private rooms (one of which I am occupying now) so it has more of a homey atmosphere than hostels. The owner, René, emphasized, during his explanation of my duties here, that this is their house and they want the guests to really feel at home here. It has only been about 7 hours since I arrived, but I can tell you, I sure feel that way!!
The B&B in on Cerro Alegre, on of the more touristic cerros (mountain) of Valpo, due to it's mind-blowing graffiti, and perfect vista points of the inexplicable beauty and uniqueness of the infrastructure here!
I walked around for a couple hours after arriving, and I feel a bit more alive!!
It's late here...😊...more soon!
P.s. I'll be posting the photos to FB)

Friday, November 21, 2014

Craziness and Laziness

I'm at my host family's house in Linares now, and at this moment I am sitting on my bed trying to decide what to do. 


Everyone is still asleep, taking their siesta, and all around the house people are hustling around getting big tents and food and flowers ready for the graduation party that is happening here tonight. I tried for a while to chase around that nanas and help them with their cooking and cleaning, but soon realized that I was being more of a hinderance than help. Then I sat outside for a bit to read, and after about 20minutes, realized I had just gotten a nice, red sunburn. I would go out into town and try to meet up with people or just walk around, but seeing as everything is closed due to the heat, and my friends are all a) at University somewhere else, b) in classes now, or c) hustling around getting ready for the graduation today, I just decided not to run off, but to enjoy not having anything to worry about...oh, and maybe decide which country I'll be going to in a week!
Tonight, the graduation is at 21h, then the party at the house is at 22h, then another party that my host sister wants me to go to with her because her boyfriend can't is from 3-5am. Then I come back, pack up my bag, and get on a bus to Chillán where I was invited to go to a wedding...and do multiple hair-dos beforehand. And that'll go on until 5ish the next morning...!!! 
I arrived here in Linares yesterday, and surprised my host siblings and father who didn't  know I was coming. It was a glorious little reunion, and then lots of questions like "Why are you only staying for a week?! We thought at least a month. How rude!", and "How could you wear something like that?", and "Are you ever going to go to college?", and "Why don't you shave your upper legs? You've become such a hippie while traveling.", and "You need to be here for the holidays!" Etc. So, I guess I'm feeling a bit suffocated. But I know they mean best and that it's all just cultural differences, so I just try to pick my battles wisely, smile, and say I haven't made any solid plans yet...
We'll see how things go this weekend, and then when I get back here to Linares after the wedding, and then hopefully I'll write a more interesting blog post without just venting.
:) 

Thursday, November 20, 2014

Back Here...

Being here in Chile with friends and "family" has been wonderful! It's comfortable, and that is nice, but it's also proving to be a bit suffocating. I'm starting to itch for adventure!
I spent 5 days in Concepción, Chile, visiting old friends, making new friends, relaxing, cooking and eating, biking, reading and writing, etc. It was very nice to spend time with Felipe (a friend from my exchange 3 years ago) again, and we got along just like before! 
I struggled a bit with the cultural differences at the beginning, but the culture shock was gentle this time around. Things like: men serving, asking, helping women with their EVERY move (I like carrying my own bag, and standing up on my own, etc.); and the way the nana (...another difficulty for me...) fills my plate for me at lunch, piling sooo much food on, half of which ends up being wasted; and the general laziness of everyone here, who drive 2 blocks to go to the store...and forget going for a run...! So, I need to try to keep myself on track and not fall into the routine here.
(I'm m going to just post what I've  written so far because I know I'll just keep putting it off if I don't...)
Another update soooon[er]!

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Here I Go Again...!

So, I went home in mid July, for some much needed family time, for my mom's wedding, and to refill my bank account. It was a wonderful few months in the Berkshires surrounded by loved ones and beautiful nature, working a lot, and enjoying the change of pace and having a relatively steady day to day routine - which is a drastic lifestyle change from that of my traveling days. I also rekindled my love for dancing, and met some inspiring people through that as well!
I quickly got comfortable and lost my momentum; but thanks to my spontaneous decision to buy a plane ticket to S America, I didn't have too much of a choice about leaving come fall...which I do see is a good thing, even though sitting here in the San Salvador airport on a layover, there are few things I want more than to be home, cooking, or gardening, or at work... 
But I have absolutely no obligations to anyone, no future commitments on the calendar, and a bank account full of hard-earned $$$ waiting to be spent on some incredible and unforgettable adventure, so I am going to do my best to focus on making the very most of this fortunate life I was given, and this place I've gotten myself to!
My darling father and I got up at 3:30 this morning to drive to JFK Airport in time for my flight. In the car, we kept reminding each other and ourselves that we weren't just driving to a contra dance, or on some road trip, but that I was actually LEAVING! 
After a 5hr flight landing me in El Salvador at 13:30, I'm sitting here writing this blog, and this still doesn't feel real. Honestly!!
I have another 5hrs of waiting before the 2nd leg of my journey. I'll be flying from here (SAL) to Lima, Peru where we'll be la sing at 2am local time. Then I have a 21hr layover in Lima before the last leg of my trip which will be landing in Santiago, Chile at 3am local time!
But, now I need to go and figure out how to buy a bus ticket online (which is not easy in these less developed countries) out of Chile - or else they won't let me enter the country.
More soon...!
~Iolani

Monday, May 19, 2014

Malaysia!

I flew from Bangkok to Malaysia on May 6th, with the plan to catch my flight to Banda Aceh the next morning. But, I then realized that I would have to get a visa extension once in Indonesia because I've already booked my flight out of Indonesia...so, I decided to stay in Malaysia for a bit longer and then go to Indonesia just in time for my Vipassana (May 21st).
I stayed in Kuala Lumpur for a few days, but was overwhelmed quickly and had to move on. I walked all around the strange and relatively flashy city, taking in the difference in culture (do to the large Muslim population). It was such a completely different feel in KL as anywhere else I had been in SE Asia.
Next, I traveled southward to a small town named Melaka (Malacca). That too was so strange! It was a quaint town, with a "China Town" (Jonker Street), and a "Little India", and a nice canal running throught the town. It was kept so clean and combed, and I can only assume that that was only for those tours and crowds of tourists (usually in funny matching shirts). But I had a good time there, eating lotsssss of ethnic Malaysian food, and met some cool people!
I then decided to go to the eastern side of Peninsular Malaysia, to Pulau Tioman (Tioman Island). I spent almost a week there, enjoying the quiet island, and then after a few days I decided to do the training and get my Open Water Diver License! I had held off from doing it for so long, but then just decided that I am coming closer and closer to the end of this journey, and I've been budgeting so well, so I may as well spend a bit more money and do it instead of regretting it forever. And I must say, it was such a great decisions! I had so much fun and diving is such an incredible thing!!
Yesterday I left the island and am currently in Mersing, Malaysia. I am quite sick (high fever, trouble breathing, cold sweats, etc.) so, I'm just trying my best to rest up and get better in time for the Vipassana!
I won't get another chance to write for a couple weeks now, but don't forget about me ;)
Spread the love!!
~Iolani

Thursday, May 1, 2014

Northern Thailand! Songkran and other adventures

I arrived in Chiang Mai on the 11th of April - one day before Songkran, the 3 day-long Buddhist New Year (a huuuge water fight) was to start. It was very fun, but even after just one full day of running around, soaked to the bone, throwing bucketfuls of water at anyone and everyone within splashing-reach, we were overwhelmed and exhausted! And, if you're wondering how a 3rd world country can come up with enough water for this kind of craziness: there is a moat surrounding the "Old City" in Chiang Mai. All the water came from there and went back into there (along with many other things), so, needless to say it that sanitation was not one of their concerns. This went on for 3+ days... and there was no possible way to avoid it, or to go outside anywhere without getting soaked almost immediately! 
There were markets full of incredible foods and various arts. The temples were all decked out and had set-ups of small cups of water (sometimes "special" water that one had to buy) which you were to take and splash on a Buddha statue for good fortune for the upcoming year. There were many parades with elegant men and women dancing, and huge Buddha statues on trucks or being carried on the shoulders of men, being splashed/sprayed with water for good fortune. People were also drinking alcohol day in and day out, which always adds a twist... So, we were out waterfighting all day, and then went out for the evenings, dancing and enjoying! It was a veryyy different kind of New Years celebration from any I've experienced (in USA, Chile, and Germany), but to me it felt wonderful! People were just smiling and cheerfully (apart from the occasional grump who had just had enough) spraying water at each other and wishing one-another a Happy New Year!! 
But, as things go, it is hard to go crazy and have such a great time with so many people without some damage :-/ First of all, in all of Thailand (pretty much just Bangkok and Chiang Mai) over 400 people died over the course of those few days of Songkran. Most were motor vehicle accidents, some involving alcohol as well (which was the cause of an injury of mine), but they were also pulling bodies out of the mote for the next couple days after Songkran. That was a sad way to end such happy times.
After Songkran, I stayed in Chiang Mai for a few more days so that I could meet up with none other than Kels :D and another friend from school, Charlie! That was so great! So strange too being together, out of the normal element, and after we'd all been through so much.
Next I made my way northwest to Pai, a town in the mountains which is a favorite amongst backpackers. I explored waterfalls, ate lots of local foods (as usual), helped myself to litchi when I found myself in the middle of a huge orchard. I even joined the fire and acrobatics performers for one night putting on a choreographed show at the big bar/club in town! It was a "cool and chill" time, but bedbugs got the best of me, so on April 22nd, I took a bus to Chiang Mai, and then Bangkok.
Once in Bangkok, my first order of business after finding a decently priced and equally clean place to stay, was to work out my Thai Massgae training!!! I found the place again, and had a short discussion about details with the teacher, Noi, and left as happy as a clam! My course was to be 150 hours of training 1on1 with Noi (starting early the following day), for only 7,000THB ($210), and I would come out being skilled and Thai certified in Traditional Thai Massage!
So, the next morning it began! Reading books on all the various techniques, books on the many energy lines that run along our bodies and how to treat each one and when, learning step by step all the moves to a Thai Massage, etc., and then after our 8 hours of study and massage together were over I'd go back to my room at my hotel and studyyyy in order to have the 20 or 30 moves I had learned that day ingrained in my head so that I could then focus on technique. But that's not all that I did for those weeks in Bangkok. After the first couple days, Boi and the other masseuses asked me if I'd like to stay at the massage studio with the rest of them. So I did! At first I wasn't sure what that want or what to expect, but most of my questions were answered on that first night (as I wouldn't have proven effective to ask the ladies because no one spoke a word of English...apart for Noi whose broken English made our training a bit challenging at times). Once we closed our doors and finished giving the last massages, we all (7 of us) slept on the hard massage mattresses on the floor close next to each other and shared one bathroom (in which they all showered twice daily). It was cozy! We cooked and ate odd, spicy, salty, fishy, gross, delicious, Thai foods together, and even went on a nice day trip out of the city on a work holiday! I also started taking up roles in the massage place, as is my fashion, working the reception and other odd jobs around the place, all the while learning a lot of really great and useful things about general business as well as massage business management...I top of my massage training of course! It was all a very strange experience for me, having a relatively strict daily routine after so long of doing what I wanted when I wanted to, and being surrounded 24/7 by almost only people who didn't speak a word of English. 
On May 6th I received my Traditional Thai Massage License, and on the 7th bid my wonderful new friends and the bustling city of Bangkok fair well and hopped on a plane to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
~Iolani

I am so sorry for the infrequency of my posts leading to my need to do such short recaps... but I thank you for reading!  :D

Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Cambodia! Quick recap!

So, I have been very very bad about updating the blog :( I'll try now to do a short recap of the past few weeks:
From Saigon, Vietnam I went to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. I was still traveling with those 3 English guys... We spent a few days in Phnom Penh, a strange but beautiful city spotted with colorful temples. In our time here we went to the Killing Fields - a preserved area where the killings happened during the Khmer Rouge rule of Cambodia (1975-1979). It was the most moving, eye-opening, and humbling experience I have ever been through. The four-year period cost approximately 2 million lives (about 21% of the population) through the combined result of political executions, disease, starvation, and forced labor. I was so blown away not to have known about this before coming to Southeast Asia. At the Killing Fields I did the audio tour which was very educational and helped me really understand the atrocities of what happened there - and so recently. As we walked through the fields, there were still bones sticking out of the ground where mass graves had been made as dumping pits for all the bodies. I even stood right in front of a tree upon which baby's heads had been smashed... A temple stood in the center where literally thousands of skulls had been recovered and were on display. I can't even put into words how intense it all was. [if you don't know about the
Cambodian Genocide - which very possibly occurred during your lifetime, please educate yourself!!!]
After Phnom Penh we took a bus to Sihanouk Ville, a small city on the coast of Cambodia, going into the Gulf of Thailand. the 4 of us stayed in a 2 double bed private room (much cheaper than staying in a dorm) and mostly stayed in that one area of the city where all the travelers go. But of course I did my regular trips to the big market :)
On our second night in Sihanouk Ville there was a festival going on. It was a ways outside of town, but they had trucks bringing all of us out there. It was quite fun for the first few hours until everyone around us was on all different kinds of drugs...
Daryl birthday fell on the next evening, so we had a special dinner, I got him a cake O:-) , and we went out! 
Next was Koh Rong - "Paradise Island" as I like to call it! We took a ferry out there and found 2 cheap private rooms. Koh Rong is quite a small island, and has only recently become a popular destination for travelers - so its still quiet and relatively secluded. The bungalows, hostels, and restaurants only take up about 400m of the beach, and the rest of the island is still pretty untouched. There is a path that leads across the island, through the jungle, to Long beach - literally a long beach of perfect, white sands and crystal clear water, with nothing on it! 
The boys and I stayed together on the populated side of the island for a few days and did one trip (snorkeling, fishing, and sunset on long beach while eating our day's catches! It was a wonderful trip full of excitement and sun! First, while snorkeling, a  5 or 6 foot shark swam right by us. No, this is not a normal thing...and no it probably couldn't have killed any of us too easily, but it was still and unexpected surprise. Then, while we were fishing off the boat (just throwing in our weighted, baited hooks, attached to a coil of fishing line), Adam was searching for something in my backpack when we dropped the bag exclaiming that there was a scorpion inside. I proceeded to dump out all the bags contents, and sure enough a small scorpion came crawling out quickly. As soon as our tour guide, a native to the area, saw the it, he pushed me back, and told everyone to move away. He pulled out a lighter and chased around the scorpion trying to burn it...and succeeded! He then explained that the small ones are in fact the most dangerous and poisonous. We were then boated over to Long Beach where we grilled up all the fish we had caught (a bunch of small red snappers) and enjoyed the beautiful sunset!
A couple days later the boys left back to Sihanouk Ville (where they each got a tattoo - one that I designed and drew out :D ), and then went on... It was more than due time for us to go our separate ways.
After they left, I went to the other side of the island and camped out on the beach with some new friends! It was amazing! Just the beautiful, raw nature around us!
After Koh Rong I made my way north to Siem Reap. Oh, I forgot to mention: on Koh Rong the general hygiene is reallyyyyy bad... so I got quite sick there. For about 3 full days I was quite miserable in all the inescapable heat with a fever, puking up everything, and just without any energy. It wasn't a great way to experience Siem Reap and the Ankor Wat Temples... :-/ But what can you do...?! 
Somehow, I still managed to appreciate Siem Reap and see at least some of what it had to offer!!
Next, I hopped on a bus to Thailand in order to make it to Chiang Mai for the Songkran (Buddhist New Year) festivities! 

...more on my recent adventure SOON!!!
~Iolani

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Saigon / Ho Chi Minh City! Goodbye Vietnam

I got up at 6am and walked to the market to get us all breakfast and lunch for the bus ride to Saigon 0:-) . We missed our bus (because it left early), but then managed to catch one... We spent 8 hours on the bus to get from Dalat to Saigon. It would have been fine, but we were kindly blessed with a few unfortunate happenings: first off, Daryl had the shits...so, he was in a bad place right from the get go. On top of that we were in very uncomfortable seats that didn't recline, AND the AC was broken (very problematic in this heat and humidity). Needless to say, it was an unpleasant ride, and upon arriving in Saigon - where we had not yet booked a hostel - we just wanted to shower off the sweat and then relax!
So, all grumpy and indifferent to everything, we found a hostel (or rather the boys found a hostel that suited them). They chose dorm for $8/night - not one of the many $5 places close by - because it had good reviews on trip advisor. Haha!! Well, I guess that's just another difference; I just hope it doesn't hurt me too much financially.
Anyhow... So, we settled in, showered, ate, relaxed, and then I looked around a bit to see what the city had to offer.
We went out in the evening! The nightlife in Saigon is so completely different. In Vietnam everything has to shut down by 23h, and if they don't, the police drive around to all the bars that still have customers, and take all the sitting stools away and sometimes even the computers and sound systems as a punishment for not closing on time. But, this time we only made it "out" at around 23h30 and walked just a few blocks before coming across a lively street! Everyone, locals and foreigners alike, were seated tight together along the whole sidewalk and street, drinking beer and socialising. It was something new, and surely nice!
The next day was a pretty slow day due to the boy's hangover, but once I finally got them out of the hostel (at around 2pm), we were able to see quite a bit. As we were walking to the sights we saw a mini, astro-turf, football pitch ("soccer field"). A group of Vietnamese were getting ready to play, and the 4 of us asked to join in for a bit (using sign language as none of them spoke English). All of us are passionate about football, and have played quite a bit, so it was just so wonderful to get back on the field!
That evening we met up with 2 Danish girls who the boys had met in Thailand a month ago. We had dinner with them, and then went out for, what was supposed to be a few drinks and an early night, but ended quite differently. I was in a bit of a down mood, so I - the dead beet - left early... I was quite thankful I did though when it came to the activities we had planned for the next day!
On Sunday the 23rd, we took a tour to "The Tunnels". Our tour guide Tony was in the Vietnam war working as a translator for the US army. It was incredible hearing about it so unfiltered as well as being able to really see it first hand. He told us about the techniques the KAmericans and the Vietnamese used as against each other, and gave some pretty brutal descriptions of the gruesome happenings which affected so many people. It was definitely a necessary thing to see when in Vietnam, and hearing it from that perspective was a big plus.
We spent a few more wonderful days in Vietnam! We went to a rooftop pool party at some fancy 5 star hotel. We went to the market :-) We ate lots of good food! We even went to Sky Bar, a very posh bar on the 52nd floor of the tallest building in Vietnam overlooking Saigon all lit up! We each had to get a drink, and my draft beer (the cheapest thing on the menu), cost $6! Holy shiiiit!! That exact same draft beer cost me $0.50 at a bar the night before! I never would have done that if I wasn't with the boys, but I'm glad I did. I spent way too much money, but it was definitely good for me to let go for a bit!
On Sunday night I got on a bus - that was to take 6 hours - across the border, to Phnom Penh, Cambodia!


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Thursday, March 20, 2014

Dalat - city in the mountains

Arriving in Dalat, I go a bit lost, but eventually found th boys! We booked 4 beds in a dorm, and then set out for lunch and exploration: Market :-) We found some incredible food places!
The next day we rented 2 motorbikes, I packed us a lunch, and we went to a waterfall right outside the city. It was a bit of a disappointment, especially because we had to pay for every little thing. But we had a nice picnic and some nice time together! In the evening we got some good street food for dinner and then went out all dressed in green for St. Patty's day! I as very surprised that no one was out celebrating as there were many westerners in Dalat.
Dalai is tucked in the mountains close to the border of Laos. My generous travel buds gave me some anti-malaria pills (doxycycline) which I don't usually like to take, but decided it would be better than the alternative. So, we should be okay if we remember to keep taking them for the next week (I think we'll be okay anyway...).
One day we went for a run around the lake in the middle of the city (9 Km). It was good for us because we all pushed each other no one wanting to lose face by stopping or slowing! It was a much needed workout and will hopefully become more of a routine.
Now, as for my travel buddies. They are 3 wonderful, kind, generous, smart gentlemen from south of London. They are 22 and 23 years old, nd left their jobs - at least temporarily - to travel for 8 months. They started in Northern Thailand and then came to Hanoi, where I met them in the dorm. When I first saw them, they came into the dorm room, introduced themselves and then started working out (they are quite aware of their physique). Daryl is the sweet jokester, Nick the initiator, and Adam the observer. I have had to learn how to take their English humor, and maybe throw it back, which is hard for me as it can often be a bit harsh and hurtful....  I love all three of them, and will be sad to leave when we have to part.
We left today, Thursday, March 20th, for Ho CHI Minh City (or "Saigon")! An 8 hrs bus ride, literally dripping with sweat because the AC was broken.


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Nha Trang with my new buds!

It was another long (12hrs) trip on the sleeper bus. When I got on the bus I went right to the back to where there is a row of 5 sleeper seats next to each other, hoping that I'd get lucky and get it all to myself! Right before we pulled out of the bus station a group of 7 loud boys came onto the bus. 4 of them climbed and squeezed onto the remaining seats next to me, joking immaturely all the while about spooning and cuddling. We started chatting and exchanging stories...: they are 7, 19 year-old English guys traveling for a few months...only 2 weeks in. When I answered their questions about age and travel history and the other routine questions that seem to start most conversations between travelers, they kind of went quite, stopped joking around, and maturely, respectfully, and with genuine interest interviewed me for the next few hours. It was quite amusing to be honest!
When we arrived, I went to the same hostel as them, booked one night and then met up with Nick, Adam, and Daryl and went to the beach with them. We chilled and discussed. We both didn't want to compromise or change each others travel plans or freedom, and agreed that it would only work if we stayed true to ourselves. And so started our temporary but exciting time traveling together!
In the evening I took them to the market :-) and then we went out for dinner at an expensive seafood restaurant (expensive for Vietnam). [This was the first thing I had to accept about our different travel styles...] then we went out to Why Not bar. It was a good night!
In the morning I packed up, checked out, and moved into the dorm where the boys were (I moved and not them because theirs was cheaper haha). We went out (again) for breakfast, but I just brought along a mango,a couple bananas, and some soymilk I had bought the day before! I'll change some things for my boys, but not if it'll potentially hurt me...so I just modify a little.
That day, after much back and forth, I decided to join them on their trip to Vinpearl Land. We each (the 3 boys, 2 other English girls, and I) paid 500,000VND ($25) for our ticket, and then got a taxi to where the world's biggest over water cable car took us from the mainland onto the small island. We spent 10 hours there to get in all we could for the money we had paid. We went on all the rides (unimpressive), did all the slides in the water park - a few times - , spent a few hours on the picturesque beach, did "bungee jumping" (assisted trampoline), took the alpine coaster just in time for the sunset, ate food, went the Underwater World (an impressive aquarium), and then after dark went to the arcade. It was the weirdest amusement park anyone could imagine! There was hardly a soul around...but it was in perfect condition. It felt like there was something we didn't know about - like maybe there was a tsunami coming, or a zombie apocalypse haha...
The next day we went to the local brewery, tried some beers, and then in the evening went to a bar to watch the boy's home teams play football! Boy was that emotional!
Nha Trang too was a nice city; a bit big for me though. On Monday morning I hopped on a bus to Dalat where I would meet the boys...
~Iolani


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Hoi An - Birthday with new friends!

I arrived early on the 11th, found myself a hostel, and then met a really cool French guy as I entered my room. I spotted a pair of dirty feet around the corner, introduced myself to the bearded Frenchman, and we hit off the conversation right away about our barefoot travels! He showed me an amazingggg vegan restaurant (where I ended up eating dinner for the next 4 nights, including my birthday dinner!). It was full of sensational raw and cooked vegan foods. In the US could be overseen as another place for the conscious eaters, but here in Asia something like that is sooo rare. He told me of his extensive travels in the past and gave me some words of encouragement and reassurance that will help me more than any tips or advice ever could. He is one of those incredible people who one rarely has the privilege to run into, and I'm bummed he had to leave that same day. There was simply SO much we wanted to talk about, so many crazy similarities...!
That day I went to the market to explore (the market is my favorite part of every city), and while I wandered, admiring all around me, I literally ran into Adam, and then found myself hugging the three English boys (Adam, Joe, and Tom) from Hanoi - the ones who were on our flight from Bangkok and then that we share a private room with for a few nights! The last I had seen them, we were saying goodbye thinking we'd never see each other again... It's funny how small the world is when you throw yourself into it!
We spent that evening together, getting them all ridiculous, silk tailored jackets (a must-do), going to a shisha bar, and playing pool to welcome in the 20th year of my life! At the bar I also ran into (not so litterally) the other 3 English boys (Adam, Nick, and Daryl) - the ones I met in Hanoi, and then ran into in Hue. They were also a huge part in making the night so wonderful! :-)
On the morning of the 12th (my birthday) I woke up early to Skype with family! What a nice way to start a special day! Then I spent the day at the beach with Adam, Nick, and Daryl, and also Josephine (a stunning Danish girl who I met at the hostel). Later, Josephine and I went out for dinner at the vegan place :-) and then went back to that bar for the evening! We met up with 2 French guys who she had met before, and an Israeli girl, Yael, who we HD bet at the hostel! We enjoyed some cocktails, and then they got flaming birthday shots (which burned everyone's lips)! And then, just before midnight, the loud music went off and a "happy birthday" song came on the speakers, and someone carried out a mini cake to me! It was such a sweet gesture from Josephine and Yael! <3
The rest of the night was spent playing pool, and dancing bachata and salsa (with a Colombian who I just met). It was a good night!
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention: that day, while on the beach, the three English boys expressed that they would love it if I traveled along with them for a bit - no commitment. They said my ways really inspired them, and since I had a similar plan for the next couple of weeks, it would be lovely to go together. I thought about it and then said that I'd see them in Nha Trang in a couple days and we'd go from there... (more to come about this in the Nha Trang post)
Hoi An is my favorite city in Vietnam so far! That probably has something to do with the wonderful company a had and the nice times we spent, but it also has such a welcoming and comfortable feel to it! I was sad to go when I did, but it was the right time to move on!
~Iolani


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Sunday, March 16, 2014

Sapa - Beautiful Mountain Peoples

On March 4th, at 6pm, I boarded a bus to Sapa (a town in northern Vietnam, close to the border of China). I had paid for a tour to go see the breathtaking rice paddies, and to spend a couple days with the local villagers.
After a 12 hour overnight bus ride, we got off the bus, quickly layering up. I put on shoes for the first time in over a month... we were led to a hotel where we ate breakfast and then met our tour guides - local women who lived in the small minority villages.
We set off walking through Sapa and then along a path leading us up and down, through and around unimaginable rice paddies. The mountains all around us had completely been transformed into picturesque terraced ledges with specific water level control ridges. Water buffalo and pigs wandered the paddies all around us, seemingly free to go where released and eat all in their path.
Along the way the group of small, colorfully dressed, energetic women, used whatever English they had to chat with us and build a connection (seemingly innocently...but later we saw the real reason they walked all those Km with us, babies or big baskets strapped to their backs, without receiving any pay).
About 7 Km in we crossed a big suspension bridge and came into a small village (where some of our small guides live, along with all the rice farmers), where we were to have lunch. As we were getting ready to sit down to eat, we were completely attacked by the locals trying to sell us all sorts of handmade things: small and large colorful bags, blankets, rings, bracelets, wallets...all of which they had supposedly stitched and embroidered by hand. The women who had walked all that was with us, digging their way into our hearts were now pleading with us, accompanied by a swarm of 5 - 10 year old girls, looking at us with the saddest eyes and repeating things like "Buy from me! 2 for 5! 5 for 10!" and shoving colorful bracelets at us. Both were very difficult to refuse at first due to feelings of guilt, and a wish to contribute something to try to better their poor lifestyle. But, after some time, we didn't even bother trying to make excuses about why we didn't want to buy, and simply tried to ignore their, now irritating, insists.
***we were later enlightened on the situation by our main "guide". She explained that the women were the ones who earned the money for the household while the men built houses, and any and all hands, men and women alike, worked the rice and corn fields. Those selling things,the young children included, depended too much on their sales to tourists which took them away from their necessary daily activities - work, school, etc.- which was changing the villages a lot, especially in that they were becoming more and more dependent on outside resources versus being mostly self-serving and providing for themselves all that was needed - as was the way since...... She suggested that by buying into it, we were supporting it.
We ate lunch and then walked another 5Km along the beautiful trail until we reached our homestay (a local house that had been turned into a dorm with a large dining area. We explored a bit around the small village, ate dinner - which had been prepared for us by the locals -, and then were given shot after shot of a stronggg rice liquor, made there in the village! We soon retired to our beds,tired from the days excitement!
The next day we trekked some more through the mountains and past a dry waterfall, but the visibility wasn't so great due to large clouds which engulfed us. Again, we had lunch at another village, and again were attacked again by the persist sale attempts... We enjoyed a wonderful lunch together, and then were brought back to Sapa to catch or night bus back to Hanoi.
The entire trip was wonderful and filled with beautiful sights and people, but for me it was especially a deep cultural eye-opener. The complete separation between the Vietnamese city people and the minority tripe peoples, and even more so we westerners, is absolutely unbelievable and striking to learn about. It makes ones life seem so small and insignificant in the grand scheme of things.

I'm falling a little behind on my posts (which is a good thing because it means I'm not spending hours on my tablet and am making better use of my time) but will they my sweetest to catch you all up!

~Iolani


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Monday, March 10, 2014

Hanoi to Hue...and on to Hoi An

March 8th I hopped on a bus taking me southward (I'm running from the cold, rainy dreariness) to Hue. It was a supposed to be a 14 hour bus ride in a nice sleeper bus, but ended up taking almost 17 hours due to a tire explosion, and the fact that Vietnamese don't prepare for these kinds of things...
When we finally stepped of the bus (and were attacked as usual by the overwhelmingly pushy hotel and tour promoters), we were all relieved at how warm it was!!! I found a small "homestay" hostel (just a little, family run dorm room), paying $5/night, with breakfast included. (All the other hostels I went to in the area charged $7+) I settled in, did laundry, showered, and then went for a little exploration.
Hue is Vietnam's Imperial city, and home to many beautiful, old buildings and tombs (most of them inaccessible by foot from the city center). First I walked to Citadella, the well preserved ancient city, still surrounded by a wall a moat, but only admired it from outside, because I had been told it wasn't worth the $5 entrance fee (very expensive for SE Asia). I then wandered through the back streets and alleys (which I prefer to the "main path"), watching the locals in their environment, playing cards, laughing, scolding their children, cooking together - things you only see if you take a few steps off the beaten path.
I soon reached the market (pictures to come...). This market though was very different from other ones I had been to. It wasn't all fixed up and glorified for the tourist's eye, with jacked up prices, but built and kept simply to serve the town's people as best as possible. It was cramped together and noisy and disorganized with little - if any - attention put toward cleanliness; everyone just pushing their way through - carrying huuuge rice bags and boxes of random medicines and oils one could only guess what they were - in order to get where they need to. People say that Vietnam, and the all of Asia is hectic and disorganized and dangerous, but once you immerse yourself a bit and partake, you can see it from a different perspective and can realize that there is "a method to the madness".
For the past few days, I haven't felt particularly motivated to do anything. Just sitting in bed, maybe reading, and eating food has satisfied me...but I don't like that! So, after my trip to the market, I went back in the direction of the river that runs through the city, where there's a small park, laid down my beach cloth on the grass, and did some inversion yoga!!!!
In the evening, and then the next day as well, I hung out with some people from my hostel, as well as some people staying at a different hostel who I had met and spent time with back in Hanoi.somebody mentioned something about a Vipassana meditation course, which instantly struck some interest in me, so I'm trying to find one within the near future!!! [I'm very enthusiastic about and excited for that!] oh, and then yesterday,the owner of the hostel I was in showed me the motorbike he's selling. It was set at a great price, in good condition, and after a test drive really tempted me... But after some careful consideration and self-reminders that safety comes first, and. Short but helpful Skype call with my wise grandparents and my father who always knows best, I resisted the urge and itch for (potentially risky) adventure, and declined the offer.
During my short Skype session with my grandparents, my grandfather said something that I hope I can live by, and I think we all could benefit from. It was something along the lines of, "no matter where you as and what you do, the experience comes from within you". I think I really butchered that [sorry Grand-O], but the gist was that we can all make what we want of a situation, and that what goes on inside us is what's truly important.
It was a relaxed but good couple of days spent in good company!
~Iolani


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Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Hanoi, Vietnam

Arriving in Vietnam, we got our visas, and then spent about half an hour trying to figure out how much Vietnamese money (dong) we should pull from the ATM. The tourist info desks weren't very helpful, both because they spoke very little English and because it seemed like they weren't very eager to help us westerners. We each took out 1,000,000VND (approx. $50), and then found a map and a minibus to take us toward the hostel filled block of Hanoi.
On the plane from BKK to Hanoi, we met 3 guys from England, who we ended up splitting the bus with, and then as things happen, also ended up finding a cheap room to split with them.
As soon as we got off the bus, we were bombarded by Vietnamesemen on motorbikes - who had been following our bus since the airport - trying to get us to come to their hotel...and probably also seeing what valuables we had.
We compared prices of a few different hostels, and then settled with a private room for the 5 of us with hot water, free beer (until the daily keg ran out), free breakfast, paying only $4 each (all the other hostels were $5 and up for a bed in a shared dorm room)!
We spent our first night and day in Hanoi exploring the city, as well as searching for motorbikes for the 3 guys, who planned to travel to the south of Vietnam on them.
Our second full day in Vietnam we took a tour to the famous Hallong Bay ($15 each). (I'll try to stay possitive here: ) We got on the bus at 8am, and 4 hours later arrived at Hallong Bay. [By the way, where we were - northern Vietnam - is not warm and sunny like southern Thailand...it's cold, foggy, and rainy almost every day] After waiting (in the cold) for an hour, we got on the boat and were served a delicious lunch! We then sat on the boat - which was still parked in the harbor - for another hour. Finally we set off, the tour guide telling us that the visibility was very poor at this time of year, and also that we had to rush through the activities of the day in order to get back at the planned time.
We first went into a cave (all lit up with colorful lights, and jam packed with tourists). It was quite an impressive, huge cave! Then, we hopped back on the boat and were taken to a fishing village. It was quite a sight with the floating houses and young children selling fruit from small boats, but we were soon told that np one actually lived there, it was just to serve to to tourists. :-\ we then sailed back to the harbor, supposedly passing right by the famous, "beautiful" Hallong Bay Islands, which we couldn't see at all thanks to the fog. Then we were carted back onto the bus for the 4 hour return journey.
It was a relatively cheap tour, but still felt quite cheated and disappointed by the end. ...oh well...

The next couple of days were unexpected and quite undesirable and uncomfortable, but in the end, the results were the only thing imaginable. I don't really want to write too many details, so I'll sum it up as best I can:
Ever since Kels came back and joined back up with me, things were different between us. We noticed it, talked about it quite a bit, and kind of pushed it off thinking (and hoping) that it would pass and that we just needed to get used to each other again. It turns out though that we have both simply changed, and grown. We set off on our journey, first on the Appalachian Trail and then on our world travels, together and with equal (or similar) goals of growth and exploration, worries, hopes, etc. We lived soooo much together, depended and leaned on each other for support, trusted and confided in each other, hated each other beyond imagination...and then made up realizing that the other was all we had - and it wasn't all that bad, etc. The great times were sooo great, and the bad times were complete suit, but in the end we always had each other!
But now we have different outlooks and plans for the future, and to put it simply, that makes it difficult to see eye to eye on big decisions regarding our trip...and before we knew it, on any decision at all.
Many very difficult discussions later, we were finally able to agree on one thing: that it was time for us to go our sepparate ways. The decision was not lacking in "what I really want" and "what's right for me" dilemmas, and worries of what the consequences would be, but in the end, it was the only option.
So, like mature adults, we split our shared belongings as equally as possible. $400 later I had bought myself a new tablet and camera because traveling without either... I'm sure I could, but I just wouldn't do it. We had dinner together a couple times, leaving nothing pending, nothing unsaid, and then parted ways with a longgg hug and kind words!
I highly doubt you'll ever read this, but...All the best to you Sita! May your travels bring you unlimited joy, liberating freedom, (rational) risk, ceaseless growth, and carefree dancing!!!! I love you girl and will never forget all the amazing experiences we shared...and I hope there are more to come! :) take care!!!!
~Iolani


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Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Koh Phangan!

When we finally arrived on Koh Phangan after a few bus rides and a long ferry ride, we took a taxi to the part of the island where Safir (my cousin who put us up in the small she is renting) told us to go. We got out and started walking around in the dark, looking unsuccessfully, for the land marks in her directions. About an hour later, I heard someone yell my name! It was her boyfriend! We dropped our bags and hungout together at the Freeway Bar for a few hours, and then made our way to their house. It's not a huge place, but we made good use of the couch, the floor, the hammock hanging outside, and the extra mattress.
The next few days we spent relaxing, and looking around the island. Koh Phangan is known for it's full and half moon parties which attract huge numbers of young people wanting to party. As it happens, the half moon fell on the 22nd while we were there. We were planning on going, but decided against it when we realized that the entrance fee, taxi fare, and drinks would add up to more than 1,000TB. 1,000TB is only $30 which is not so expensive for a party like that, but 1,000TB is also 6-7 days worth of food, or 8-10 days worth of accommodation.
So, we spent some nice days and nights with Safir before they left on their visa run, and then the next day Kelsey and I set off on our 18hr journey to Bangkok where we are now sitting in the airport waiting for our flight to Vietnam!

~Iolani

P.s. again, pictures are on my facebook!

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Koh Lanta to Krabi and onward!

After 2 1/2 fun filled weeks at Clayzy House on Koh Lanta, and 2 unexpected, adventure filled days in Krabi (a small city in southern Thailand), with 2 girls, Astrid and Emily, who were volunteering with at the "Happy Hippie's Village", we're now heading to Koh Phangan (an island off the east coast of Thailand). My cousin, Safir, coincidentally is living there at the moment, so we'll be meeting up with her :D !!!
Our time at Clayzy House was a wonderful experience! We worked hard, had loads of fun and sun, painted beautifully, relaxed well, sang a lot, and made connections that'll last forever. It is a very interesting place, and Neng Neng has created a unique environment, trying to enforce community unity and relaxation to the max. I was sad to leave, but I don't doubt that it was the right time to move on...
Yesterday, Kelsey, Emily, Astrid, and I woke up in our room here in Krabi, rented 2 motorbikes between the 4 of us, and set off with the intention of going to the national park, and emerald pond, and tiger cave temple...but, as all good days start, we ended up changing our plans... On our way up to the national park, we saw a tiny sign reading "To the cave, To the top --> ", so we stopped and explored some :) .
The cave wasn't huge or scary (from what we saw) but the rock formations were incredible! We then decided to heck out "the top", and so started our jungle trek up the face of what felt like a cliff. We bush whacked, and followed the sometimes visible path, and climbed up steeeep faces where someone had thankfully attached rope that we could hold onto. There were a few times that we stopped and considered whether or not it was worth the difficult and dangerous climb up (and more dangerous yet, down), but we pushed up to the top where we sucked up the amazing views, and a refreshing watermelon I had carried up! Kels and I have seen many incredible views from mountaintops, but this was our first with surroundings like these...!
We all made it down with no more than a few scrapes and scares, and then headed to the national park where we found a nice, refreshing, waterfall. The nice thing about our first adventure of the day was that noooo one was around...not even any Thais, and it had most likely rarely been done by a tourist. But arriving at the park, we were brought back to the reality of annoying crouds of tourists, and Thais on tour, taking away from the raw beauty and of our surroundings.
We then hopped back on our bikes and were driving toward the beach when we had another little, unexpected occurrence of a flat tire (which could have been - but wasn't - dangerous). The chain of events to follow were so ridiculous and frustrating, and when we finally all found each other again, drove to the beach, and were sitting in the sand watching the sunset, with a much neeeeded beer in hand, we were able to laugh at all of it!

More adventures ahead...!

P.s. I'm sorry about the lack of pictures on the blog :( my Blogger app has failed me continuously, and simply won't post oictures. And as I lack access to a computer, I have resorted to posting my pictures on Facebook ( Iolani deRis ), or I can email them to you upon request :)

Thursday, February 13, 2014

Thailand! (Bangkok and Koh Lanta)

After about 58 hours of travel and very little sleep, we finally were dropped off at the road where supposedly our hostel/workaway were. When we walked into the hostel area (which I'll attempt to describe below), we were told by Neng Neng, our workaway host, to drop our bags and go walk to the beach. We got there just in time or the sunset! As we were standing there, we both exclaimed that this is paradise! And then we instantly tried to think of ways we could extend our time here...
So, for the past 8 days now, we've been working (quite hard) for about 6 hrs a day, in exchange for free accommodation and 2 meals a day. The work ranges from doing large scale artwork on walls, to physical work in the field (under the hot sun), to bartending, to cleaning the sleeping bungalows, and much more. Since this is a laid back "hippy hostel", the organization is not slways the best, so some of us sometimes end up working hard for 8 hours, while others have a 2 hour shift at the bar.
It's a really cool environment here, and the ideas behind this place are absolutely brilliant, but as it's only 1 year running, the execution is often lacking...
The bech is only a 2 minute walk from the hostel, and is incredible! The water is warm enough to comfortably go swimming at night (to see the glowing plancton), yet still refreshing enough to cool me off after my daily, early morning run and gym workout! It is clean, and turquoise, and simply incredible...especially when covered in dirt and mud fromwork! The beach is lined with beach bars/restaurants, and massage places, both of which receive a good amount of business from tourists. At night everything is illuminated by big colorful lights, seemingly competing to get ones attention, and almost any night stroll will bring you across a fire poi spinner, and sometimes even some people sending off those beautiful lanterns that romantically float high over the ocean. It's quite an enchanting place, but I think that if I wasn't working for a large part of the day, I wouldn't appreciate the beach time as much and would start to get bored on this small island.
Some days we (or one of us) is only asked to work a few hours, then recieving only free accommodation, or maybe accommodation and one meal... So, everyday we have at least one meal to figure out for ourselves. We have a pretty amazing, cheap, pad thai stand just a few steps away from us which is often a go-to for us, and then there are plenty of restaurants and minimarts to choose from. For me, I love to just go and buy myself a 30baht fresh coconut, cut it open, and enjoy the natural goodness, on the beach, in the sun!
We've met so many great people here, and have made some connections that might not last forever, but surely have changed us. This hostel is a small comunity of unique peoole coming together from completely different places, backgrounds, and worlds, to share a memorable time. We've said countless exciting "hello!"s, and even more sad "see ya later!"s. The sad and unavoidable fact of our departure from this incredible place stays looming over us, but we are also starting to get ansy to move on and explore more of Thailand and Southeast Asia! 
The full moon is coming up, which is a big event here in Southern Thailand (not so much where we are though), and we plan on heading north after that!
Live in the moment!
~Iolani

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Cold, Grand Prague... to Hot, Bustling Bangkok

On the 24th, we took a 14hr bus ride from Amsterdam to Prague, and then, struggled in our search for the hostel, and were forced to feel real cold (the first time this winter for me). The hostel (Czech Inn it's called) was one of the nicest we've been to yet, at least in terms of the cleanliness and the facilities.
We didn't do much for the beginning of our 3 days in Prague because the cold (-15ºC) really just made it unpleasant to even go outside...especially when one has a limited amount of clothes, AND when the majority of those clothes were packed with Southern Asia in mind. We met some cool people, mostly Americans, and in the evenings enjoyed delicious, cheap (like everything else in Prague, and supposedly most of eastern Europe), Czech beer! And, the rest of the time spent indoors was dedicated to preparation for our upcoming change!
We did, thankfully, force ourselves to go out to explore the beautiful city. The grandeur of everything, the buildings, roads, even sidewalks, was quite the contrast from Amsterdam's quaintness. We explored the Wencesias Sqare where all the big touristy shops overwhelmed the beautiful, old architecture. We admired the old Tyn Church and the other sights in Old Town Square, and bought a few little odds and ends at the incredibly cheap street markets. We went on to the big canal/river "Vltava", and then crossed it on the Charles Bridge, heading toward the Prague Castle. We didn't actually go into the castle, but we walked all around the courtyard, got the amazing view of the city from up high, and went into the grand and colorful church. We did all this with two American (NC) guys we met that morning!
That evening, we went into the Basement Bar below the hostel, got a fe pitchers of beer, played a game of trivia (a Monday night tradition at that bar), and then started a card game with a few new friends. By 23:00 we had managed to attract at least 6 more travelers who wanted to join in the jokes, laughter, and the exchanging of stories. It was great fun!
Tuesday morning we had to get up earlier than we would've liked, and the next 50 hours was travel time, with a few 10, 20, 30 minute chances for some shut eye. We flew from Prague to Moscow, and then from Moscow to Bangkok. Upon landing in Thailand, we went through customs, to the currency exchange counter, baggage claim, and then quickly to the bathrooms to change out of our boots, and sweatshirts, and into sandals, and short sleeves. We found our way across Bangkok and to the train station where we would later catch our train to Trang (and then a bus to Koh Lanta - where our workaway is). We bought outpr train tickets, put our big packs into Baggage Storage, grabbed some much needed caffeine, and then stepped out to get a feel for Thailand! We were immediately offered rides by the little taxi cart drivers, offered any kind of info, offeres coconuts, and beers, etc. We walked a ways into the city, keeping an eye on the time (it was only 12ish, and our train left at 17h). We discovered a few big, colorful, ornate temples, and justwandered the streets which were lined with small shops selling all kinds of cheap odd and ends...and then there were even more people selling stuff all along the sidewalks on little carts. Coming from Prague where the streets held few people only out to run errands, Bangkok was bustling, and so jam packed you could hardly move at times. We didn't encounter any signs of the riots, and for the most part people were very friendly (although we did have to simply be aware and wary of those who might not have been all good intentions...but that applies anywhere and everywhere). We bought some delicious, SPICYYYY, street food: Kels got a chicken curry, and I got a big, fresh, ripe coconut,  and some kind of a porridge (the only veggitarian thing around), and then I added my own fresh veggies. Now, that was risky of me because my body is not accustomed to this food or water...so I might pay for that...
We got back to the station at 16:30 (according to Kelsey's watch), and relaxed for a few minutes. When we were ready to get on the train, and were walking toward the platform, I happened to glance at the big clock in the station. It read 17:42. We had missed our train. Thankfully, there was one more train going to Trang, BUT all the first and second class seats had been reserved, leaving us with two, 3rd class seats. Normally I wouldn't complain about that, but the 2nd class tickets we had before, placed us in air conditioned sleepers (actual horizontal beds). To give you a little insight here, we hadn't slept for over 36hrs by this point, and we were really looking forward to a good nights rest before ourexciting next day. Also, the train ride was 16hrs long (no, I'm not exadurating). Thats a long time to be sitting - very upright - in a crowded, brightly lit train car, with a large, very loud crew of Thais we just knew we couldn't trust.
So, some painful stomachaches, countless, annoying, unsuccessful attempts to sleep while hugging our bags, and 16h hours later, we are about to arrive at Trang Station! Finally!
~Iolani

P.s. so sorry for the lack of posts. My blogger app has been deleting all my hard work :(
Amsterdam post and many many photos to come...!

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Denmark ♥

Upon my arrival in Ribe (the oldest town in Denmark), I was greeted with big hugs and smiles by my friend Mette and her father, Henrik. We drove a couple minutes through the narrow cobblestone streets to Mette's school (she was on her lunch break), where I went with her to her Spanish class and then physics class. It was great to see that side of Denmark.
After classes were over Mette took me around the town, pointing out all the interesting sites: her school- the oldest school in Denmark- Ribe Katedralskole, the oldest town hall in Denmark, the house of Maren Spliid (Splids)- the last witch to be burned in Denmark, the hill where a castle used to stand, the water-control hills and dam, the beautiful Ribe Cathedral in the center of town, the smallest house, etc. She taught me about water levels in the city, and how flooding was an issue certain years. And, on our way to her house (a few km outside of the city), she showed me the completely flat landscape where one can see over 30km into the distance, and can feel the intense winds that have traveled so far, without and interuption.
We arrived home and were engulfed by the delicious aromas of her mom, Merete's cooking. She made the typical Danish Christmas dinner: delicious pork roast, with gravy and potatoes, and of course the crispy fat from the roast! It was so yummy! Mette, Merete, and I ate together, which was so nice! Henrik missed out because he had to work the "afternoon" (night) shift, as a policeman in Esbjerg (the biggest, closest city). They told me about their lives here in Denmark and taught me a lot about the many systems in Demark, and how different it is from the US and the rest of Europe. It was really very interesting to learn all of this first hand!
The next couple of days consisted of me going to school with Mette for part of the day, and then more exploration! She took me up to the top of the bell tower of the cathedral where we were surrounded by beautiful views, and impressive winds. Then, we ate real, danish danishes...WOWWW!!
Mette took me to the Menesker pa Havet ("Men by the Ocean"-4 big, white statues) in Esbjerg. So cool! In the mornings after Mette had gone to school, and Merete to work, Henrik and I had some great discussions about travels, cars, politics, work, money, etc. I learned so much from him! I also attempted to help out as much as I could  0:-)  On my second night there, I cooked dinner for them (stuffed peppers, and carrot salad), which I think was appreciated, and then Mette and I made danish pancakes with some interesting fillings for another dinner! :D
I had initially told Mette and her family that I was only going to interrupt their lives and stay until Thursday or Friday, but they were generous enough to let me stay until Sunday!! The weekend was relaxed in the house, and being the only one who didn't have to work or study all week long, it was nice to just be lazy the whole time and it gave me time to be productive in my planning, but it was also a bit much... It made me re-realize how much I love being a nomad :)
On Saturday night, Mette's best friend Helena came over and we had some Saturday night fun! They introduced me to a few different kinds of Danish alcohol: GaJol (a licorice liquor), Tempt and Somersby (Danish hard ciders), Carlsburg Beer (Danish beer), and Cuba (a liquor). We played games at Mette's house and then walked to Helena's house and played more games, and then at 1, we took a cab into town. They showed me the 2 bars where "everyone" goes, and gave me a little taste of the Danish small town night life. After a few exciting events, we finally made it home!
This afternoon it was very hard to leave! This wonderful family had opened their house and hearts so wide to me, and I really felt at home. I hope that we can connect again soon, either somewhere in Europe (Denmark or Italy), or in the states, when they make it over there!
Mette, if you're reading this... thank you sooooo much for all your kindnesses! You all went out of your way to make me feel comfortable and happy, and it was all more than I could've ever asked for! I hope you find happiness there, and then as soon as it's possible, that you come try out the spontaneous and adventerous life of a curious traveler! I love you!
TUSIND TAK!
♥♡♥

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Winter holidays in Deutschland

Kels and I had a fun time in Berlin! Kels only had a few days left before flying home for Christmas, so that loomed over us the whole time. It was only a bit of a distraction though, and we were still able to fully enjoy Berlin! The artsy city gave us a new and fun attitude full of spontaneity and the need to fully live every moment. We met 3 American college students on a study abroad semester, near the Berlin wall, and ended up spending the evening and night with them. They were sweet and fun, and it was funny seeing the different attitude they held toward Europe...
The climate change coming from warm Barcelona to brisk, windy Berlin proved to be a bit of a shock for our bodies, and we got hit pretty abruptly and hard with a cold (that I'm still trying to get rid of a month later...). But we pushed through the sniffling, coughing, and tiredness, and managed to have a great few days in Berlin!
On December 22nd, we parted ways, Kelsey to Frankfurt to catch her flight home, and me to Magdeburg to my sister. It was bittersweet: we were both overwhelmed with emotions about seeing loved ones again, and returning to the rythmic and structured life, after 4 months of freedom and spontaneity. It was also sad knowing that our time traveling through Europe was coming to an end...
When I arrived in Magdeburg, I was greeted by Mareika (my 15 year old sister) who is currently living with our uncle and going to school in Germany. It was so nice seeing my uncle and ant and big cousin again who I hadn't seen for over 4 years! I stayed with them for a couple days, and then on Christmas Day we all drove to Salzwedel to my grandparent's house. Again, very nice to see the family (my oma and opa, ant and uncke, and little cousin)! We ate a TON, played cards for the majority of the waking hours of the day, and downed chocolate like there was no tomorrow (and I mean boxes and boxes!) It's always a great time, going to Germany to visit the family, but the lifestyle (and diet) are sooo completely different, and I can only take a so much of it...
On the 26th, Mareika and I caught a train up to Kiel, in northern Germany, where our big brother, Toby, picked us up! We then drove to Lütjenburg to where he lives with his girlfriend Andrea. It was the first time in 6+ years that we 3 siblings were together for Christmas...it was very special! We also got to spent a couple days with Elias, my precious nephew ♥ ! Unfortunately Toby only gets him for a couple of (tough) days every 2 weeks...custody battle... It's not a situation I would wish on any child or parent. He's only 1 1/2 years old, and it's all so confusing for him...
On New Years Eve the four of us (Toby,  Andrea, Mareika,  and I) loaded into their small car and drove to Berlin where we stayed with Andrea's mom in her small apartment until Jan. 5th.
On 31.12.13 we enjoyed the time together, ate a big dinner, drank lots of champagne, and hung out. Shortly before midnight, the 4 of us went to Alexanderplatz (central Berlin), fireworks in hand, to let 2013 go with a bang and a pop! It seemed like all of Berlin was out on the streets, and most people were setting off their own fireworks right off of the streets out of empty Sekt, Wodka, and beer bottles! Hugs, kisses, alcohol, and wishes for the 2014 filled the air!
Toby, Mareika, and Andrea went home then, and I made my way across Berlin to meet Tom (someone I had met when I was in Berlin with Kels) to go out dancing, and start off 2014 with some excitement! We ended up going to a house party and spending a great time with (new) friends until 4am, and then heading out to look for a club. After walking an hour, and then standing in line for 1/2 an hour, they asked us for 30€, EACH, to get in...AT 5AM :O ...so, we walked around the still lively Berlin for another couple hours, and then went to sleep. That day we all stayed in bed, and evidently so did most people in Berlin.
The next few days were calm and relaxing, and on the 5th Toby, Andrea, and I drove back to Lütjenburg, and Mareika back to Magdeburg (school started back up on the 7th).
I stayed with Toby and Andrea (I think I forgot to mention that she is 7 1/2 months pregnant) for the next week! It was great having a stable place to stay, a stocked kitchen (something that is greatly missed while traveling), and a bicycle I could use to go those 4Km into town. I got myself a week membership at the tiiiincy gym in Lütjenburg, and that quickly became my couple hours for myself everyday. I think I may have sparked a bit of (much needed) interest for excercise at the house as well!  Toby works weekdays 8h-17h, and then comes home exhausted, so our quality sibling time was limited but sooo great! I hadn't spent and real time with Toby since 2007, and sooo much has happened to and changed for the both of us...but inside we're still the same people we were before, so things just worked between us and it was as if we no time had gotten between us!
It was also so great to see Mareika! The dynamic there is quite different though: There are only 3 years between us (and 6 years between Toby and I), we're both girls (self explanatory), and we've been together pretty much our entire lives... It was wonderful to see her again after 4+ months of separation, and all went surprisingly smoothly for the first week...and then we went back to their same old sisterly ways. No matter how much we wished that things would change over time, it wouldn't be at all the same without that...
So, yesterday I made my way up to Denmark wher I met Mette, a friend who came to the US on exchange last year. Her and her family are being very kind and letting me stay at their house, and show me around the beautiful town of Ribe (the oldest town in Denmark). It's so wonderful to see Mette and spend time together, and I'm so grateful to have a private guide around this beautiful city so full of history!
More to come sooon!
~Iolani